sense & nonsense of Cueball draw

December 5, 2011

What IS required stroke to draw a Cueball? The frequent cause of failure IS Addressed Some common myths are as

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24 Responses to sense & nonsense of Cueball draw

  1. iTzCeeJay on December 5, 2011 at 5:50 pm

    It’s all about timing and a smooth cue action.

  2. GetMeThere1 on December 5, 2011 at 6:45 pm

    This is a BRILLIANT video! I have to admit that, as a much younger player, I was PROFOUNDLY perplexed by the “mystery” of stroke–and spent at least a year in real confusion. Finally, I came to the intuitive conclusion that people who could draw more must in fact be hitting nearer the miscue limit–and it WORKED (i.e., I got a little “braver” about extending my hits outward if I needed more action).

    Thanks to the internet (and people like you–and DrDave), one can actually learn THE FACTS!

  3. ihcug90 on December 5, 2011 at 7:21 pm

    great video! very helpful, auto subscribe :D

  4. LeonFleisherFan on December 5, 2011 at 7:22 pm

    Nice instructive video, thanks!

    You do mention acceleration, but never get to the explanation part there. One would think it’s what in any sport that involves a pendulum swing motion, acceleration at contact is what people refer to as “timing”, i.e. while there may be draw action with inferior timing, there will be more draw and better feel with good timing. My two cents worth…

  5. OsirisGOLAD on December 5, 2011 at 7:37 pm

    I think a lot of misscues are caused by a movement after or during the hit, or a change of direction in the hit. If you hit the ball low, and the ball starts moving forward and then your cue goes up slightly, it is quite possible that the cue will drive the cueball up. A good screw shot I think is a combination of hitting the ball as long as possible(every nanometer counts, and force=longer hit), but also giving the cueball space. The best screw shot is perfect harmony between these two things.

  6. OsirisGOLAD on December 5, 2011 at 8:07 pm

    If you have a good cue action, I think it is better to use a longer bridge and a slightly diagonal cue movement. A misscue is caused by the cue trying to force the ball up. If you strike the ball horizontally, there is more chance that you force your cue into the cueball causing a misscue. If you use a short bridge, there is a good chance that you will still be heavily accelerating at the moment of contact; it is best to be on the verge of slowing down when hitting the cueball.

  7. Astralsupreme on December 5, 2011 at 8:58 pm

    After this, you line up with the cueball putting the tip all the way to the cueball to about 1 cenimeter before the impact, and simply follow thru into the felt. Most people are scared to do this because the cueball can hop, but in this case the impact is precise as the tip hits the cueball before the felt, as you fixed that in the warm up exercise i mentioned, for true draw, simply drive the stick into the felt.

  8. Astralsupreme on December 5, 2011 at 9:51 pm

    The secret of the draw shot is simple. First put your stick on the side of the cue ball and pretend a drawshot, follow thru, and hold the stick there, see where it contacts the felt and freeze. Now simply push your back arm down, and your tip will come up, continue your follow thru and you can go almost level about another 6 inches in most cases than previously thought.

  9. ehsanul on December 5, 2011 at 10:01 pm

    Hey, great videos man.

    It seems that keeping the cue really level sometimes causes the cue ball to inadvertently “hop”, somewhat like a jump shot. I guess a slight elevation helps with this, without sacrificing too much on the draw. What do you think?

  10. electrifyed1 on December 5, 2011 at 10:28 pm

    Everthing seems on the up and up! However, FargoBilliard failed to mention (slide)and how well one judges the slide will effectively promote the amount of draw being applied.

  11. blumousey on December 5, 2011 at 10:32 pm

    Another point he is wrong about is the ‘miscue limit’. This limit is not circular, and has many other factors associated with it, mainly angle of cue against the cue ball at contact, speed of the cue etc etc. I would argue that such a limit does not exist, but the hypothetical use of it to make a point about chalking is fine as a simple model.

  12. FargoBilliards on December 5, 2011 at 10:51 pm

    Massey raises his elbow on the backstroke and lowers it on the forward stroke on a power draw. This allows him to hit the ball harder. Where Massey differs from nearly all other humans including most pros is he can hit the ball at warp speed WITHOUT sacrificing much on the close-to-miscue contact point.

  13. devindrabhagwandin on December 5, 2011 at 11:46 pm

    how come Mike Massey drops his elbow when shooting a power draw? nearly all pro’s drop their elbow…

  14. FargoBilliards on December 6, 2011 at 12:15 am

    I agree the chalk mark will be 5 mm or so above where the center of the cue is aiming. But I think people realize this. That is, if I tell a player to line up to contact the edge of a stripe, I think most will line up not the center of the tip but rather the top portion of the tip for the edge of the stripe.

  15. mosconi81 on December 6, 2011 at 12:39 am

    I think this guy is just plain wrong on some points. The wrist action is key to a good draw stroke. Wrist action increases cue speed. Imagine trying to throw a ball, swing a bat or drive a golf ball with your wrist locked. Generating enough cue speed with your arm only would create a wild stroke. Another point is that a loose wrist keeps the cue level throughout the stroke. If you want to draw well, a loose, snappy action, with a good follow through will help.

  16. mosconi81 on December 6, 2011 at 12:59 am

    At 7:30 You don’t mention that only the uppermost section of the tip makes contact on a draw stroke. If I aim the centerline of the tip at a given spot (and hit that spot) the chalk mark will appear about 7mm higher than where I was aiming.

  17. loopycaleb on December 6, 2011 at 1:35 am

    perfect practice makes perfect.

  18. joshasc on December 6, 2011 at 1:39 am

    man all anybody needs is practice…the more practice you have the better you will be…for instance if you practice pool for 24 hours in a row without stopping, sooner or later your gonna learn how to plan and where to hit the ball…practice makes perfect…

  19. doilyfilm on December 6, 2011 at 1:55 am

    nice, systematic analysis. well done. keep it up, and i’ll see you at the US open or at the DCC some day.

  20. OsirisGOLAD on December 6, 2011 at 1:58 am

    It’s all about keeping contact with the cueball as long, as low and as hard as you can without ‘upsetting’ the cueballs normal path. The angle of your cue also helps: the only way you can hit a lower shot(lower than you normally play) hard is by increasing your cue-angle.

  21. johnbeam on December 6, 2011 at 2:33 am

    Thanks… this is very informative! Always had inconsistant draw due to not understanding this elbow drop…

  22. benvnguyen on December 6, 2011 at 2:43 am

    great video

  23. BilliardInstruction on December 6, 2011 at 2:51 am

    A “Long Follow Through” thought will give permission to the player to drop the elbow. Academy of the Cueing Arts DVD’s explain this in detail.

  24. forcefollow on December 6, 2011 at 3:25 am

    Great video mike. Keep posting.

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